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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.